Overslept. While rushing to the Country, I was ready to pass this truck. He started speeding, blocking my pass. Portend for things to come?
Surf was around 3-5' Hawn and chunky, with overcast skies and passing showers. North swell was dying, but the new NW swell started kicking in.
Not too many folks out initially, but it got pretty crowded, mostly spongers like me. Nice to see some of my friends though. I caught a few so-so waves--nothing special.
Decided to give OTW a shot. It was closing a little, but I saw a few open walls. Caught three pretty fun waves (at least I was pretty much alone out there).
Then it happened. While paddling back out, this north peak zeroed in on me. A couple of friends who saw my plight said that the wave was a solid eight footer (Haw'n scale).
All I know is the wave detonated just in front of me and I got the most vicious wipeout ever. Just ragdolled big time. The next few waves were pretty bad too--seemed to have gotten stuck in the impact zone.
After a while, my body just went limp. I was just rolling around while wave after wave pummeled me. I was so drained that I could barely reach onto my board.
After negotiating the Insanities shorebreak, I crawled onto the beach, my vision just myopic and tunneled out. Rested for a half hour before making my way up the beach to rest some more
I've had bad wipeouts before, but this one was really harsh. It was amazing how my body seemed to just shut down, allowing me to hang underwater a little easier. Still felt like drowning was imminent.
I'm not in the best of shape and I hope this was just a good spanking by Mother Nature to tell me to shape up. Message received loud and clear.
neo
Imperfect Pipe is still pretty good
It was chunky
OTW, shutting again
